Tuesday, May 6, 2008

Boat Season Berlin Begins

Well, for me it does. The sun has been shining here way too much here these past few days. It must be making me nervous or something because I’m starting to sweat. And once I start to sweat I start thinking about water. Did you know, for instance, that about 70 percent of our bodies consist of water? You did? Well did you also know that about 7 percent of Berlin consists of water?

That’s right. Berlin has water all over the place. Two large rivers, the Havel and the Spree, pass right through town. There are several huge lakes all within the city limits: Wannsee, Tegeler See and Großer Müggelsee (I won’t even mention the dozen or so smaller lakes you can find here, too). Mix this all up with a gigantic canal system and you’ve got over 180 kilometers of navigable waterways, all within the city of Berlin.

Berliners like to claim that there are more bridges in Berlin than in Venice and more canals here than in Amsterdam. This may or may not be true (Berliners like to claim all kinds of stuff, you know) but I think you get the picture anyway. This city is a pot of gold for those seeking recreation in, at, around or even underneath the water. It’s not bad for us non-recreational types who like to travel on the water, either. I just love to be chauffeured around in a big, comfortable tour boat here, you see, eating Bratwurst and drinking Bier as the world floats by. But maybe that’s just me.

For those of you out there who have actually come to Berlin to see something, well, I recommend you do the same thing – only different. Instead of running around from one Sehenswürdigkeit (sight) to the next, let the sights come to you. Just sit back and let Berlin float by you for a change – admit it now, you’re tired of walking. It’s true that you may feel like you have to duck from time to time to avoid some of the lower bridges the boats here have to pass under, but they won’t obstruct your view for very long and you won’t fail to take away a unique impression of the city.

There are several touring companies in and around Berlin to select from (have a look at Stern und Kreissschiffahrt, for example) and all of their boats are quite easy to find. It’s easy, really. Just head for the body of water nearest you and the chances are good that one of these Anlegestellen (docking areas) will be will be waiting for you there or right up/downstream. The prices are reasonable and the times are flexible so pack your backpack get out of your life for awhile already.

Here are a few classic Berlin boat touring routes:

The Landwehrkanal and Spree tour. This is a “city cruise” and the right kind of tour to take if you want to enjoy getting a different perspective of the Nikolai Quarter, the Berliner Cathedral, Museum Island and the Reichstag. There are bridges galore and the busy, “downtown” atmosphere is invigorating. These tours are rather short and the boats leave frequently so there will never much of a wait for you.

The Treptow-Spree tour. These boats usually leave from Treptow and the Jannowitzbrücke. This is another city tour but continues on past the Reichstag to the Chancellery and then past the huge Lehrter Bahnhof to continue on through the Spreebogen. They turn around near Charlottenburg Palace.

The Havel/lake tour. You can jump on the boat for one of these longer, “greener” tours at the Greenwich Promenade in Tegel or at the locks near Old Town Spandau or directly at Wannsee (U-Bahn, S-Bahn Wannsee). They can last for several hours, if not the entire day, however. It’s easy to shutdown and enjoy the beautiful landscape along the banks of the Havel once you’ve stepped aboard and found a comfortable seat on one of these babies. There is nothing like a leisurely float through the Wannsee to clear your mind of whatever might be ailing you. If you have a few hours to kill “productively”, this is definitely the best way to do it.

I should warn you that some of the boats you will be seeing are a bit on the extravagant side. Don’t be frightened if you run across a monstrosity called Moby Dick. And no, it’s neither white nor a whale. It’s a ridiculous whale of a boat, though, and lots of fun to ride. There’s even a bigger ship out there called the MS La Paloma. It holds up to 525 passengers and is a full-blown river liner.

Jeez, the sun is still shining. Hello? In Germany? The Spree’s just down the street. I’m outta here.

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